How to fit worktop clamps

how to fit worktop clamps

Solid Wood Worktop Installation Instructions

If you are not using suction clamps, hot melt glue 3 MDF blocks on each side of the joint. Then use G clamps to the blocks to bring the 2 panels together. Oct 09,  · Drill 3 holes in each support. It helps to use a clamp to hold the worktop in place as you drill. Reach below the worktop to find the wooden supports. Place a hole at either end of the support, then drill the third one in the middle%(2).

Please read the installation and aftercare information below; following these instructions will ensure that your solid wood worktop provides years of optimum service. These guides are also available in PDF format - click here to view. Important Note: Before making any cuts or customisations, please identify the 'A' and 'B' sides of your worktop.

The 'A' side of a worktop has a smooth, even surface, and must face upwards. The 'B' side may contain some small, naturally-occurring imperfections which do not compromise the strength of the woodand the surface is slightly rougher. For worktops that have had customisations or pre-oiling prior to delivery, the 'A' and 'B' sides will already be labelled, and they will be ready to install.

As beautiful as our wooden work surfaces are, the innate qualities of timber as a material mean that there several important considerations - most importantly - how to fit worktop clamps, humidity and moisture. For example, the moisture content in wood is directly related to the relative humidity within the air. If the relative humidity is high, so is the moisture content in the wood, causing the wood to expand. On the contrary, when the relative humidity is low, the what is shared memory graphics card content in the wood decreases leading to it retracting and shrinking in size.

So, before, during, and after installation, the worktop is prone to gain or lose moisture which often leads to many problems such as bowing or warping. This installation guide has been designed to help you safely and correctly install your worktop. The guide also gives valuable insight into the proper maintenance programme for this product.

It is advisable to read these instructions carefully and file in a safe place so that you might consult this document in future. We strongly recommend that your worktops are oiled as soon as possible after delivery in order to gain the best finish.

However, if this is not possible for any reason, please be advised that correct storage is equally important. Firstly, do not remove the packaging; rather lay the worktops down flat but not directly onto the floor. If there is more than one worktop to store, it will be necessary to place battens between each surface.

These supply the worktops with full what to do about your crush, removing any pressure that may cause damage see the diagram below for visual guidance. Before you consider installing your new worktops, you must ensure that all surfaces - edges and faces - have been oiled at least three times to allow for maximum protection.

Between hours is needed in between each coat of oil. Moreover, we strongly recommend the use of Rustins Danish Oil to achieve the perfect finish. Make sure that any excess oil has been wiped away no more than 30 minutes after application, to avoid staining and to ensure that no streaks are left behind.

Once this has been completed you are ready for installation. NOTE: Cut edges and end grain absorb larger amounts during the oiling process; it is therefore important to apply a further coat to these areas for an even tone overall. To allow enough room for the worktop to expand and contract make sure that there is a mm gap between any adjacent walls and units, and the worktop edges. This is particularly important if you are installing the worktop against a wall.

If you are installing the work surface near a freestanding oven i. This is to prevent any damage to the worktop and also helps to protect the end grain.

A moisture how to fit worktop clamps is essential if an appliance is going to be fixed underneath any worktop, or if it is being fixed directly onto exposed brickwork. This is to protect the worktop against what do they eat in amsterdam extremities of heat or humidity.

Instructions regarding the fitting of a moisture barrier can be found within this guide - please read on. NOTE: For a mm worktop, the maximum unsupported overhang is mm, with other worktop sizes being calculated on a pro-rata basis.

It is also advised that in some cases the application of a support leg s is necessary for secure installation. If you are fixing your worktop to a cabinet, then you should only use a slotted angle bracket and a round head screw for fixing.

Do not use an unslotted bracket, even if it is supplied with your cabinet this could cause significant problems with your worktop as there is no room allowed for expansion and contraction. Be sure to choose the slot in the bracket that runs perpendicular to the width of the worktop - across the grain, not parallel to it. Some circumstances mean that slotted brackets cannot be used cabinets that have a solid top, for instance, or when they can only be secured through the cross rail.

If this is the case then an oversized hole of around mm needs to be drilled through the carcass top and secure worktop by using a large washer and screw. Like the slotted bracket, this allows for expansion and contraction as the work surface is able to slide over the washer.

It is important that you do not directly screw through the carcass and into the worktop, or use fixing blocks to secure. The methods we have recommended here should be followed. If you are not covering the expansion gap with tiling or silicone, then we suggest that you fit an upstand along with the worktop. This must be fitted to the wall rather than the worktop. It is important that you do not fix your wooden worktop directly into how to fit worktop clamps. To prevent moisture transference and to allow adequate air circulation to be received under the worktop, mm thick timber spacers should be fitted on a Damp Proof Membrane DPM See diagram for visual guidance.

To avoid any mis-cuts or unnecessary damage, ensure that everything has been marked out correctly. Drainer grooves should be created by an experienced fitter - if they are angled incorrectly and the water is unable to properly drain away, the worktop can split.

If you are fitting a sink, the area around the work surface and sink join must be sealed with a suitable mould-resistant silicone after installation, with the underside receiving a particularly thorough application. Immediately after cutting your worktop, be sure to coat any cut edges with plenty of oil for the best finish. NOTE: Cut outs must be bench-cut using a jig plus suitable router and not what does a computer server do jig saw.

Our staff are happy to help you if you need further advice regarding the required equipment. Moisture barriers are important pieces of equipment - they protect your worktop from any moisture that may damage it when appliances such as dishwashers and washing machines are installed. Simple but necessary! Before installation you will need:.

Following these step-by-step instructions will allow you to install your moisture barrier correctly and safely:. The moisture barrier should now be firmly attached to the underside of your worktop. When two worktops are being joined together you will need to use three standard worktop bolts on each joint. Seal the end grain at both sides using a suitable sealer - we suggest something like MitreSeal works best - before making the joint. When the parts are tightened, you will need to what is an agm deep cycle battery again.

Often we recommend only using the butt joints. This does not apply, however, to a worktop that has a radius. In this case a mitre joint needs to be used. If this is the case please ensure that the 'hockey stick' doesn't exceed the 10mm bull-nose radius see diagram below for visual guidance. Before the joints are assembled, make sure that any visible end grain is sealed.

Should the work surface become cupped or bowed, a different installation method is required - or you may need to re-install the worktop. NOTE: please be patient - it may take weeks for the worktop to return to its flat shape.

In order to offer your worktop the best protection and finish, please oil after installation. We recommend Rustins Danish Oil - you can purchase this directly from us. After successful installation, lightly sand the worktop with fine sandpaper. Before the final coat of oil is applied, make sure that there is no dust on the surface by running over it with a dry cloth or a tack rag. Spread the oil over the work surface, leaving around 30 minutes of soaking. Make sure all areas are covered - reapply more oil to any dry patches you can see.

After 30 minutes, wipe away any excess oil so there is a dry, even finish. Leave for around hours to completely dry and repeat this process 4 or 5 times for a perfect finish. NOTE: The time required for drying may vary depending on the conditions of the room and the temperature. When cleaning your worktop, take a small amount of hot water and soap, what is the best internet explorer for vista wipe down with a lint-free cloth.

Any cleaning products containing chemicals can damage the worktop so therefore should not be used. Avoid scouring pads. If liquid is allowed to pool on the surface of how to change registry entries worktop, this will lead to staining and can even cause the wood to split.

Spilt liquid should be immediately wiped up using a clean, dry cloth. Due to their natural qualities, your worktop needs that extra bit of protection - particularly against items such as hot pots and pans. Our how to fit worktop clamps steel hotrods would be advisable for preventing damage from such items. Hot, wet, or dirty objects, along with most metal vessels cans, iron, copper or steel containers should also not come into direct contact with your worktop.

Avoid cutting directly on the surface of the wood - you will only damage your beautiful kitchen worktop. Use a chopping board or butcher's block instead: it's much safer! This is essential in protecting the quality of your timber worktop, as well as improving its durability. Protection does not take long to build up; however, the wood does require extra care and attention during the first few weeks.

You will know if your worktop is well-oiled as a 'surface sheen' will develop and water - if allowed to touch the surface - will form into droplets. If this isn't the case, your worktop requires re-oiling. For the first six weeks, the worktop should be treated with Danish Oil once a week. After that, we suggest re-oiling every how to fit worktop clamps months approximately.

Cookies are used on this website to give you the best experience - please continue shopping if you are happy what part of a lamb is a shank this or, find more information in our cookie policy. Order now for guaranteed delivery! Introduction: As how to make paper cranes easy as our wooden work surfaces are, the innate qualities of timber as a material mean that there several important considerations - most importantly - heat, humidity and moisture.

If you are storing your worktops please ensure the area is: Inside. A consistent temperature not too warm and not too cold. A stable humidity. Certain conditions should be satisfied before you begin to unpack your worktops: Cabinets and carcasses must be fully fitted.

How to Fit Kitchen Worktop Edge Strip

Nov 23,  · Push the worktops together and clamp. Use a spanner to tighten the bolts from below. Scrape off excess sealant and wipe down with acetone on a cloth. Remove the clamps and screw into place with fixing brackets. Mar 29,  · There are many different types of kitchen worktop available including wood, granite and laminate. Learn how to fit a laminate kitchen worktop with this step. Essentially fitting worktop edge strip involves applying a contact adhesive to the edge strip and work top, fitting it in place and clamping it until the adhesive dries. Once dried you can then trim off any addition trim and then file and sand for a perfect matching finish.

Before working with solid surface, carry out a risk assessment. Minimise any risks to your Health and Safety and for anyone who may be in the vicinity. This must include the use of the correct Personal Protective Equipment such FFP2 rated dust masks, M class dust extraction for all power tools and adequate ventilation within the work area. Before commencing any fabrication or installation work, inspect your acrylic solid surface products and ensure you are satisfied that there are no defects, for example: colour matching defects.

A reasonable size of solid surface offcut should be kept for any future colour matched repair work or modifications. Solid Surface worktops and breakfast bars are supplied in protective cardboard U-channel protectors on all sides, shrink wrapped in protective film. These weigh approximately 75kg each. Splashbacks and upstands are 12mm in thickness and are much lighter in weight.

Solid Surface worktops, breakfast bars and splashbacks must be handled by a team, not alone. Where possible, use handling aids. When moving solid surface worktops by hand, carry it so the shorter edge is vertical. This avoids unnecessary flexing which can cause stress cracks in the material. Solid Surface worktops can be seamlessly jointed. Please refer to the 'Jointing methods' section below.

Potentially, a worktop or breakfast bar can be seamlessly jointed to over 6 metres in length. When considering the construction of exceptionally large seamlessly jointed acrylic surfaces, you must plan for the weight and the feasibility of gaining access to the installation area.

Solid Surface products should be stored horizontally and supported adequately to prevent any bowing or collapse of the product. All materials must be given a minimum of 24 hours to meet room temperature prior to installation. This is especially important for adhesives and silicone sealants because temperature affects curing time and consistency. Each solid surface worktop and breakfast bar is supplied with a protective film. Please do not remove the protective film until after machine cutting is finished.

After fabrication is complete, remove the protective film in one movement. Do not intermittently stop and start the removal as the film adhesive could then mark the surface. Once the film has been removed, wipe over the entire surface with denatured alcohol to remove any adhesive residues.

Solid Surface can be cut in a variety of ways, the most common being with a router, circular saw or jigsaw. Standard woodworking blades can be used; however, there are now blades which are specifically suited to solid surface material. These leave a cleaner finish to the cut which speeds up the finishing process. We recommend that all cuts are finished with a router as it will leave less tooling marks than other methods. When cutting with a router or circular saw, the cut should be made in several passes to prevent overheating.

We recommend cutting 20mm thick solid surface using 4 consecutive passes. The first at 5mm depth, the second at 10mm depth, the third at 15mm depth and the final pass should be greater than 20mm to ensure the cut is complete.

Use of guide rails with cutting tools where possible to maximise the accuracy of the cut. If not using guide rails or if the cutting tool is sliding across the surface of the worktop then you must use masking tape to protect the surface.

Solid Surface expands and contracts very slightly when the ambient temperature changes. Allow 1 millimetre per 1metre of expansion gap wherever solid surface is adjacent to any object such as a wall which could prevent this expansion and contraction. For example, 3mm for a 3m long worksurface.

If the cut edge is to form part of a joint, it must first be machined to become square with no rounding of the edge. Care should be taken not to 'round over' the top and bottom of the cut edge: use of a power sander can cause this due to their tendency to 'grab' and their lack of feel. Please refer to 'Jointing methods' for more details of this critical process. If the cut edge is visible, then the edge can be finished to match the top surface.

Please see the later section 'surface finishing'. Cut-outs are needed for sinks, bowls, hobs and electrical sockets. Cut-outs should be a minimum of 75mm from any joint and as far away from any edge as possible, so that the strength of the surface is not weakened. The cut-out should be marked out with masking tape do not use ink-based pens directly on the surface of the acrylic. Ensure all measurements are supported prior to any cutting or drilling; even small pieces of solid suface can cause injury.

When happy with the positioning and size of the cut-out, drill each internal corner with a 12mm drill bit or larger bit if possible to suit the sink, bowl, hob or electric socket shape. Where possible use a jig made of compact grade laminate or MDF and a router with a guide bush. Ensure these are clamped securely to the surface. Take care not to get too close to the corners.

If the cut does not reach the corner, finish with a jigsaw. Once the section to be cut out has been removed, use a grit abrasive disc and your hand sanding block to remove any rough cuts. If fitting a hob, use heat reflective tape around the inside edge of the cut-out. When fitting hobs or inset sinks, it may be necessary to increase the thickness of the material on the underside of the cut out so that the fasteners for the sink or hob do not 'bottom out'.

This is achieved by cutting the waste material from the cut out into small blocks and adhering to the underside of the edge of the cut out. If fitting drawers or a built-under oven below the hob, adjust the drawer box or oven support to accommodate the hob within the worktops 20mm thickness.

For the drawers, you will only need to adjust the rails and the mounting plates which are on the rear of the uppermost drawer fascia. Measure how much lower the drawer box needs to be. Then create a copy of the existing mounting holes at the required lower level on the inside of the cabinet side panels and rear of the uppermost drawer fascia.

This will lower the drawer box relative to the hob but leave the drawer fascia in the correct position. The oven support panel can be lowered in the same way. However, the oven may need a fascia installed between the top of the front panel of the oven and the underside of the worksurface. Please check your cabinet manufacturer's instructions prior to creating any mounting points. Because acrylic is a solid surface, you can create a 'waterfall' effect by having your drainer groove design moving from a depth of 2mm to 5mm.

Elevate the drainer groove template at one end by 3mm. Use a router and radius cutter. Shape, position and size has been templated according to the approved fabrication CAD diagram. Radius corners have been cut to the full 20mm depth of the worktop to ensure that the radius is correct on all corners.

This is the most complex part of the cut-out. To guide the fitter, the remaining edges have been routed to 10mm depth to act as a guide to complete the cut-out accurately. To finish the edges where required, for example with an undermount sink, please refer to the edge finishing section above. Cut-outs for hobs and over mounted sinks can be made using a standard jigsaw and blade suitable for use on solid surface worktops.

A plunge saw is also a suitable cutting method. The edges can then be sanded to give a smooth appearance. With undermount sinks, as the edges will be visible, a cleaner finish is required.

For cuts that connect with the radius corners, a guide block or rail should be used when cutting, ensuring a straight and accurate cut. Material should be removed using two passes at 5mm deep. Support should be provided under the cutout section to prevent damage and injury.

If you need to allow your surface to overhang a cabinet e. If the overhang exceeds mm, use either a continuous steel plate or plywood panel on the adjacent cabinet and under the overhanging worktop. Suction clamps are a professional way of levelling two panels and bringing them together for a bonded joint. If you are not using suction clamps, hot melt glue 3 MDF blocks on each side of the joint. Then use G clamps to the blocks to bring the 2 panels together. Solid Surface worktops come with chamfered edges.

Square edges can be butt-jointed, however when joining chamfered edges, please see our V-groove jointing method. Where an inconspicuous joint is required, please use mitre joint arrangements. Edges that will be joined together must be machined square. Use clear lamellas to level the two surfaces. Carry out a trial 'dry fit' with the 2 panels. Inspect correct for any gaps or excessive variation in levels. The 2 pieces are now separated and thoroughly cleaned.

Any marks will mix with the jointing adhesive and be seen on the finished job, so the joint must be cleaned throughly using denatured alcohol to ensure a contaminate free joint. Now apply the 2-part solid surface adhesive. The ambient temperature affects the adhesive drying time: in the cold it takes longer and, in the heat, it's quicker.

With the adhesive cartridge in the gun and mixer nozzle fitted, squeeze the adhesive right to the end of the nozzle. Then squeeze a nozzle length out of the mixer onto a piece of scrap material so you are certain the adhesive is mixed. Apply adhesive to both faces of the joint that will contact each other. Apply enough adhesive so that a small amount squeezes out the joint. Use the suction clamp method or manual method as noted above.

Gently and evenly increase the pressure so that the joint comes together.



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